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Hello and welcome to ASCP's SD Talk.
I'm your co-host Maggie Stasek and ASCP's Education Program Manager.
And I'm Ella Kresspinn, licensed esthetician, certified organic skincare formulator, ingredient
junkie, and content contributor for associated skincare professionals.
So Ella, we talked recently about the importance of self-care and avoiding burnout, but one
of the things we've not addressed was the impact of stress on the skin.
And it has a wide-ranging clinical impact.
Things like acne, increased inflammation, impaired barrier, and suppressed immunity and wound
healing.
And while stress causes skin disease, skin disease also causes stress.
So we have this terrible catch-22.
You know what is so funny is not funny, haha, but something interesting is this is a huge
influence on our client's skin, stress.
And it's something that I don't know that they always consider, nor do we always consider.
So back to, I know we're both very passionate about the analysis and the consultation, initial
consultation.
This is something that needs to be taken into consideration because they could be like,
I'm doing everything right.
I am exfoliating once a week or not at all if you're Maggie's client.
I'm, yep, no, I have, nope, yep, I'm doing this.
I'm doing everything right.
Still I have a wrinkle here and a pimple there.
So what's going on?
It's the products.
I know I'm allergic to the products or I'm not, you're not doing your job right.
This is what I hear when that happens.
But that's not necessarily the case.
And the reason I'm saying that and so I like to ask leading questions during my consultation.
And I'm saying that because I had my own personal experience with that.
So what happened?
It was 20, I don't know, mid-2010s.
And I had the most stressful nine months of my life ever.
So I opened my own brick and mortar store before I was both renting.
I had my own brick and mortar store.
And I think two or three weeks after I opened, my dad got in a really bad motorcycle accident
and he was flown flight for life to another city about an hour away.
And my mom had a breakdown.
My brothers, they were no help.
So I was going to call out a springs every day to see him and care for him and make sure
all the insurance, you know, all the stuff, all the like admin stuff for lack of a better
word.
Shortly after that, I was 90 day fiance catfished.
So that is an experience.
It was very stressful.
My brother was going through a divorce and so I put all my energy and effort into helping
him and his kids.
And it was just like my shoulders were up on my ears constantly.
So I was like, like that's what my body was doing.
At the same time, I had lost a bunch of weight, but it had plateaued.
And so of course, it's not me.
It's something else going on in my body.
So I'd gone to seek medical help with that.
Like I plateaued what's going on and they prescribed things they didn't need.
Contrave and what's that?
Fintramine.
So now I'm my body stress and I'm taking a stimulant.
So I'm like super stressed.
And so I'm now just running on empty emotionally and spiritually and all the things that my
skin was wrinkled and had pimples.
So but I was doing everything right because I know how to do everything right.
What is going on?
So when we talk about self care, like you mentioned, that is part of having a great
complexion because it's really important.
And then let's talk about stress.
So what is stress?
It's defined by the National Cancer Institute as the body's response to physical, mental,
or emotional pressure.
And at that time, I had all of those going on.
Stress is either acute for a short time or chronic for a long time.
And chronic exposure to stress is what takes a toll on the skin and all of the other organs
if we're being honest, a lot of the vital organs because of just working extra hard.
And we know that those other organs also influence our skin.
So another catch 22.
We got it.
Catch 44 going on now.
Totally.
I mean, when we're under stress, our body is releasing cortisol, which in turn is doing
things like depleting water in the skin.
We all know that is transepidermal water loss.
So we may be experiencing things like dry, rough, irritated skin.
Yes.
And that's the water loss.
But it also stimulates overproduction of SIBA.
So SIBAM jumps in our sebaceous glands like we're going to help you out here.
Doo doo.
And they start producing more than normal, which can increase in dry skin.
It can hit a road block.
And now you have dry acne or an oily skin.
It just knocks it off balance.
And there you have pimple.
Yeah.
Come to total town.
So now we have this oil, water imbalance.
This is potentially altering the skin's pH.
We have impaired barrier function and overgrowth of bad bacteria.
You're now prone to infection, irritation, inflammation, and maybe even hyperpigmentation.
100% hyperpigmentation is probably my favorite subject.
And what happens during the potential, what happens with exposure, keratinocytes, let
me just say this, melanin is an antioxidant instrument to protect keratinocytes.
But keratinocytes have this alarm system that goes off because they think, oh, we're
being attacked by free radicals, whatever it is.
And so it has a plasmin effect.
It starts a frenzy.
And that frenzy kicks off melanocyte production.
That's a very simplified version of what's going on.
So this stress causes the free radical production in the body and that initiates oxidative
stress where scavenger molecules come in and then they attach to stable and they have
a mess that can lead to DNA damage, which can lead to skin cancers.
That's a ton ton ton, but it can happen.
The other thing that can happen with stress, especially specifically for free radical production
is the weakening of the collagen and lassin fibers.
And that's where we see fine lines and wrinkles forming.
And have you ever seen someone going through like a rough time?
They look older.
They look age.
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Okay, here we go.
Let's get back to the podcast.
Something to keep in mind when your clients come in too is what are they like you looking
at body language.
You're looking at their written language, what they put on their form, and you're also listening
to their verbal language.
You have to put all of those together to formulate your plan.
Yeah, exactly.
So focus your treatments on combating all of these issues.
It's enhancing the barrier.
It's avoiding active ingredients that are maybe exacerbating or worsening some of these
existing issues.
And potentially, unfortunately, topical products have lesser effect on the skin that is currently
going through this mental freakout.
So let's go through some dues and don'ts for actively stressed out skin.
Let's do look at adding ceramides back into the skin and do add lipids and fatty acids
and also hyaluronic acid or silver ear mushroom extracts that's going to pull water back
and keep hold water in the skin.
So we're not dealing with trends of the thermal water loss.
Yeah.
Don't do things like AHAs, BHAs, benzyl peroxide, even something like essential oils that maybe
feel like you're going to be relaxing and calming your client could be irritating to
skin whose barrier function has been compromised or irritated.
I think you always have to look at that, always have to step back.
What's the first thing you have to do?
Second thing you have to do, third thing.
Conditionally, we're like, boom, we're going to peel it.
We're going to whatever you have acne.
Therefore, we're going to put this on there.
You have wrinkles.
Therefore, we're going to simulate, but you have to look, this is where your tactile analysis
comes in.
You have to look at the skin as a whole.
What's the first thing?
What's the most important thing that needs to happen?
And if it's the barrier function, wow.
Can you make some really big changes in one appointment?
Yeah.
And also the human touch part that you're going to add in to.
If this person is stressed, like when I think about where I was at the time, just the human
touch, the place, the safe place for me to let it out because I was holding it all in.
Oh, a safe place to let it out.
Oof.
That would have been amazing.
Yeah.
I think as ustitians, we know sometimes our clients are coming to us just to be touched.
It's powerful.
It's energetic.
Yeah, totally.
So when we're talking about healing that stressed skin and addressing the stress itself, here's
some things that we should do ourselves, but then also suggesting for our clients, things
like making sure we're taking in plenty of water, eating well, exercising.
We talked about all of these things in our self-care podcast.
Sometimes you just need to take that deep breath, step back, chill for a minute, also
things like meditation, sleep, or maybe you just need to step outside and get some vitamin
D.
Mm-hmm.
Can I share something with you that works really well when I have those clients and even for
myself?
Yeah.
So I want you to imagine that you're really comfortable.
But think about when you're breathing in, when you're stressed, where you're breathing
in your body, and it's usually uptight up at the top of your torso by your collarbone.
Short breaths, we're breathing up here.
But where our diaphragm is in the middle of our torso.
So if we need to make sure our diaphragm is actually stretching downward rather than pulling
upward, but when we're stressed, we tend to pull it upward.
So we really need to breathe, pushing that down.
So one thing that I take my clients through that are stressed sometimes as an initial,
we're going to cleanse, we're going to start it this way.
However needs to happen, I've coined butterfly breathing.
And I learned this through my acupuncture.
It's like, girl, you're breathing way up here, or you need to breathe through your whole
torso.
So there's two different visualizations that you can do.
One is imagining a wave, you know, going out and then coming back in.
So when you're breathing in, you're pulling your belly up, and that belly up is pulling
the wave out.
And then when you're breathing out, the wave comes up towards your throat.
So there's one.
The other one is to imagine this one's hard because you don't normally breathe like this,
but you should is imagine that you have butterfly wings on your back.
And with a deep breath in, it spreads the wings out.
And then when you breathe out, they come back in, but they're at your back.
So imagine those butterfly wings on your back or stretching out when you take a deep breath
in and then coming back down to your sides when you breathe out.
And so I take my clients through a cycle of three or a cycle of six, and then I just
watch them and you could see their body language change.
They settle in and inevitably they walk out a lot calmer than when they came in.
I think that's amazing visuals.
And I love that you're taking your clients through that because as we're talking in this
whole podcast, de-stressing the body is also de-stressing the skin.
For sure.
Because they're all connected.
Literally.
Now listeners, we want to hear from you.
What are you doing to help your clients manage their skin on stress?
Share with us on social media through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnected at
ascpskincare.com.
Thank you for listening to ascps detox.
And as always, for more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ella and
myself, or to learn more about ASCP, check out the show notes.
Thank you.
♪♪♪♪