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Hello and welcome to ASCP's SD Talk. I'm your co-host Maggie Stasek and ASCP's education
program manager, and I'm Ella Cresment License Esthetician, International Educator,
and Content Contributor for Associated Skin Care Professionals.
So, Ella, we're talking about eye treatments today, and this is my confession. When I was practicing
as an esthetician, I never, never, never sold eye cream. I literally thought eye cream was a scam,
and I would tell all of my clients, you don't need eye cream, you just take your serums and your
moisturizers up over the eyelid. Like, duh, I'm saving you. Yeah, trust me, I'm a professional.
I'm a professional, yeah, you don't need that stuff, man. Yeah, done. So, I know that people out
there are probably hearing this thing and like, what? Like eye cream is probably like the top
retail product. It is like the easiest thing to sell. That's where you first show your age,
and I will also admit, I have reached a certain age. I am now starting to use eye cream.
I'm seeing the light, pun intended, pun intended. Yeah, I need all the things like the de-puffing,
the d-ring call. I've seen the light are the lines. How old were you when you were telling people
to just take the lotion up to their eyelid? Yes, exactly. It changes. Exactly. Is she
gratitude for real? My clients are looking at me going, and what do you know about aging?
Yeah, that's cute, honey. Yeah. No, they're not. They're at home putting up all their creams
off their eyelids. She said, I don't need an eye cream. Listen, I am the expert. I'm the pro.
I am the pro. So what do you think about eye cream? I love it. I love it. I always have loved it.
I knew enough to know that I was not going to chance it. There's some things I'll gamble with,
like, oh, we'll dance in the sunshine. But with my eyes, oh, here's my funny story. My younger brother,
and I, he's very good looking, very handsome tall, like, buff-built construction worker,
but always handsome his whole life. So we were out one time and we were sitting
at a bar. And this bartender came up and said something, and some other conversation came about
who was older, who was younger. And she looked at my brother. She goes, your younger?
Did you work outside? And ever since then, he, like, always brings his middle finger to his eyes,
like that. That is where he noticed it, I guess. And that's the one thing he started on in his
late 30s. He started on eye cream because to your point, like, you show age, and he will not go
without it now. He has that, and he has sunscreen. He's like, the next day, he goes, like, do you
think I need eye cream? I'm like, yeah, let me get you some. That was funny. Yeah, given him the hookup.
So yeah, I do recognize that I was missing out on retail, helping my clients look their best,
and some facts about the eye area. So skin in the eye area, it's 10 times thinner than the skin
on the rest of the face and body. And it also has less sebaceous glands, less collagen than anywhere
else. So we see those fine lines and wrinkles show up. It has less adipose tissue underneath it, too.
Yes, I've heard that. I've heard that. Yeah. Blinking alone can cause up to 10,000 movements a day.
When you said that, I just imagine, I'm trying to keep my eyes open. So since eyes are one of the
first areas to show signs of aging, let's look at some of the things that you can do to help
perk up your client size. Oh, yes. So starting with some basic treatments, microcurrent facial,
is microcurrent something you ever got into? I did it. I have it, but I never loved it.
I never loved it either, but I have seen big results. So of course, you've learned microcurrent
in a static school. And then when I was teaching aesthetics, it's one of those basic things that
you introduced the students to. And we would have clients that would come in very consistently to
the school to get their microcurrent treatment done. Do you think that when we went to school,
the devices that we had were cumbersome, yeah, to be kind? And now there's so many options.
But with that, like as far as like easier and devices, there's also opportunity for retailing
those devices, too. Yeah. Yeah. There is totally targeted eye treatments. So doing like,
masking and facials, if you will, specific to the eye area. So I mask cryotherapy that can
constrict the blood vessels. I did work out of spa when I first got out of school. And it was like
your almost like a resort spa type treatments that we would do. And we literally did like rubberizing
masks just around the eyes. We also had one where it was like plaster type masks. You would put
gauze down over the eyes and all your serums underneath and then put the plaster over the eyes.
I mean, we had like the works for eyes. Oh, I see. Yeah. Wow. Yeah. A lot happening. But look,
but then you still take your lotion up to your eyelids. Gotta give the clients what they want.
Yeah. Really good. I think. But then just use your lotion.
Exactly. That's cool. You can also do with some of those targeted eye treatments. I'm
thinking my business might be kicking in. I'm thinking of in clinic, but also like for retail,
no secret. I'm a big housewives fan. But you see them getting ready with those eye patches,
those like silicone eye patches all the time. Yeah. That's a great easy way to do like those. Love
them. I don't think they work like they, I mean, my eye cream is phenomenal. So I have to worry about
it. But there's times when I've been emotional and I'll put one on. There's this one company I
use. They have like ice water one. And it works. Like it'll, it'll take it down too. But it's
also fun. Like my husband, he, he uses them too. We'll sit watch TV. Those don't want to house
by. I mean, he'd call me if anybody knew, but he watches out. I'm our little secret. Don't
tell anybody. But so yeah, I think, I think they can work. I would put something underneath them.
And then remember when we tried those ones that had the needle. Yes. The hyaluronic needle things
in there. Yeah. Those were cool. Those are cool. But you had to wear them overnight. Yeah.
And I was, mine always worried about getting on my forehead instead of it being on my eyes. So
yeah, those were cool. So lymphatic drainage, big fan of this. Oh yeah. Especially around the
eye area. I mean, draining the sinuses, I think if you've got, well, any puffiness, obviously,
but also dark circles using your Jade roller or gouache or even just manual massage, I think
really can help the eye area. Somebody called them natures gouache. I was like your knuckles.
Oh yeah. So during treatment, using those as part of your massage, like the massage manipulations
and just adding that incorporating it. It feels so nice to receive that. Yeah. I love that
lymphatic drainage. And I threw eyelash extensions on the list because why not we're emphasizing
the eyes and making them look bigger brighter. Yeah. Don't look over there. Look over here.
They do light. I loved having eyelash extensions for a lot of reason, but they can make you look
a lot younger because as you know, as you age, your eyelashes get shorter. Hold that thought. We'll
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Okay, here we go. Let's get back to the podcast. All right, advanced treatments. And I know
you're more clinical in your treatment space. Are there specific treatments that you are doing
or recommending for the eyes for your clients? I like the Gwashaw manipulation, like nature's
Gwashaws, or any kind of globes. I have metal globes that I use to add and incorporate,
but of course, I like micro-needling and any kind of chemical peeling, but I'll bring it up to just
just to that orbital bone. And then just making sure that each client has eye cream. Yeah,
real eye cream. So Botox is on the list, and of course, ASCP does not cover the use of Botox,
but I know there's a lot of estheticians out there with their medical directors that are performing
this, or maybe you are receiving it personally. Laser resurfacing the skin, that's gonna tone,
tighten, stimulate collagen, target those fine lines and wrinkles, and then micro-needling,
and you mentioned that, or even micro-needling with RF. And I love, love, love that treatment.
You know what else? PDO threads. I love them. I had them done, and because I have these hereditary
in dark, like deep-parketed eyes. Yeah. And so it just kind of really helped her remodel it,
but it was two and a half years ago. How long did I last for you? Two and a half years?
Really that long. Why? What do you see? If you guys could see their face.
And I don't know. I feel like maybe it's a little placebo, but I feel like maybe I could get
them again now. Cool. All right. Let's talk about ingredients. And antioxidants, retinoids,
peptides to name a few. These are all helping with wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness.
Let's start with peptides. Are there any peptides that you like specifically?
There's a lot of peptide categories. So when we're looking at peptides, we're looking at
brightening peptides. Then we're looking at neuromodulator peptides for inhibiting that muscle
contraction and then brightening and then, of course, encouraging hydration. So there's
communicator ones. There's all different ones that we that we can use in here. So making sure
that any peptide cream or serum has a full profile and what those particular peptides do is key
for a long time. Which is like, this is a peptide serum and it has one in there. So making a
comprehensive peptide profile for the eye, because like you said, it's a different type of skin
in that area. How about ceramides? Ceramides are really important to making sure your eyes, the skin
is hydrated, especially because in that area, as you mentioned, there's no sebaceous glands. So
ceramides particularly are going to help the barrier function. The skin is hydrated. Hydrated skin
is plump and pretty and youthful looking. Usually dark circles are going to be from one of two
reasons. So it's going to be either thin skin or we're having pooling of blood or vascular pooling
in that area. So for that, we look at brightening agents and firming agents. So some peptides will
address that too. Nisinamide is one form of an ingredient, it's actually a form of B vitamin,
that works as an antioxidant, but a skin brightener. So Nisinamide is having a moment
for the last lake here, but Nisinamides are really good one. Then of course, hyaluronic,
hyaluronic acid works to add water. So the skin of your eyes is going to need lipid and water. So
hyaluronic acid inside of a formulation will be perfect to ensure that that skin is hydrated and
hydrated skin is going to not show those fine lines as much. Retinoids and retinol is another good
one derivative of vitamin A. I would just use caution when taking this up around the eye area because
the skin can be sensitive. So incorporate it slowly. There's a lot of eye creams that are anti-aging
creams or serums that may have some retinoids or retinol in there. And start slowly if you're
getting irritation just cut back a little bit and keep it on the orbital bone. Don't go down
into the lower lid area. Retinol wicks. So it'll pull it naturally. For
relic acid, this is an antioxidant and you'll see this coupled with other antioxidants. It's
boosting the antioxidant activity of others and also has been known to reduce fine lines.
Vitamin C, the king of antioxidants, boosting collagen, it's brightening, has a lot of great
benefits. Vitamin E, this moisturizes and soothes the skin. And then vitamin K is really fantastic
for dark circles. It should be vitamin K. Yeah, because that'll help you think about it. When
we're looking at a profile, we have vitamin C as mentioned, vitamin E as mentioned, and vitamin K.
To keep all of those in mind, you're delivering nutrients in the skin that are supporting
skin function. So one of them, vitamin K, is going to encourage circulation and therefore
will lessen dark circles. In the same cup, you'll have caffeine. So caffeine is going to provide
a temporary decrease in puffiness, but it encourages that circulation also. The more there's
that circulation, the more nutrient dispersion. So it's going to be great. Your eye cream doesn't
have to have it, but it does help. Make sure if you do have any eye creams with caffeine, a couple
things to consider with that. Make sure it's in a comprehensive formula where there's other
ingredients that are moving around to that are distributing. And the other thing being careful
of caffeine application to the body, always a good rule of thumb to only not apply any more than
25% of your body. So if you're also using like a body cream that has caffeine in it, just be cognizant.
Not like putting it on your eyes is going to tip you over, but just a fun fact.
Now listeners, we want to hear from you. Do the eyes have it? Share with us your in-office
treatments and menu add-ons on social media through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing GetConnected
at ASCPSkinCare.com. Thank you for listening to ASCP SDTalk and as always, for more information
on this episode or for ways to connect with Ellen, myself, or to learn more about ASCP, check out the
show notes.